ZAMBESI AW11 [NZFW 2010]

www.oystermag.com
27 September 2010

At Zambesi's New Zealand Fashion Week show this year, models looked like war-painted wookies and androgynous, leather clad warriors. 

They marched down the runway wearing fur stoles; asymmetrical, bi-colour tops; lace body-suits; structural jackets and opened vests. There was something distinctly animalistic in the way geometry was applied to the collection, which provided an interesting juxtaposition of 'geek' and 'growl'. 

As the models filed out, the penny dropped and the central theme in the collection became clear: soccer. A hexagon motif was apparent in the cuts of dresses and tops, as well as forming the foundation for some of the structural jackets. It also appeared (sort of) in a print that was part deconstructed soccer ball, part masonic symbol.

Talking to label founder and head designer Liz Findley the following morning, I discovered that the whole collection had been inspired by the soon-to be popular 'soccer ball bag' her assistant had designed. It's also Liz's favourite piece in the collection.

This was by far Zambesi's most polished show — and perhaps one of their strongest collections — to date. 

NOM*D AW11 [NZFW 2010]

www.oystermag.com
24 September 2010

Nom*D's dramatic installation was one of the highlights at New Zealand Fashion Week. A few people complained that they couldn’t see what was going on, but designer and founder of the cult Dunedin-brand Margi Robertson explained that she expected people to move around so that they could see the different scenes playing out onstage.

How could you not want to, though? Between the adorable gossiping girls in the doll’s house-style, four-poster bed at one end of the stage, the unnervingly tense formal dinner scene at the other end of the room, and the beautiful solo singer wailing away on the wrecked car in the middle, there was plenty to see.

When Margi took me through her ‘Danse Macabre’ collection the next day, I was as impressed with the garments as I had been with the show. Anyone with a love of the macabre will likely feel an attraction to the armour-ous collection, which was inspired by protective garments worn during the era of the plague.

After that showing, it was onwards to see Margi’s sister Liz Findlay and her latest Zambesi collection up close and personal. It’s worth crossing the Tasman every year to see what these two will do next: they are by far New Zealand's most interesting designers.

WORLD AW11 [NZFW 2010]

www.oystermag.com
24 September 2010

New Zealand label WORLD never fails to bring the spectacle — and the sparkle — to New Zealand Fashion Week. The label specializes in experimental yet wearable luxury garments that have garnered the brand a cult following world wide. This year, accessories were dipped in glitter, the colour palette was gaudy, and the results were great! Oyster quizzed chief designer Francis Hooper after the label's first show in two years.

Oyster: What were your inspirations for this collection?
Francis: My inspiration for this season’s collection was 'wasted days and wasted nights' — a reaction to the times! A concise line of flamboyant pieces that is decadent and rich in character for the coming winter. 

Oyster: How would you sum it up in a few words?
Francis: Indulgent, formidable, and intoxicating.

Oyster: What are your favourite parts of the collection?
Francis: The leopard suiting in a heartbeat — the tassels make it irresistible.

Oyster: What were your reasons for skipping last year’s show? Did you feel pressure to deliver something excellent this year after not presenting a show last year?
Francis: We were simply too busy. WORLD and WORLDMAN together take a lot of time to nurture. Last year was a very busy year building relationships in Europe, hence we were a no-show in NZ.

Oyster: How do you feel the show went? What has the feedback been like?
Francis: WORLD is a show brand so we were in our element; from the luxurious invitation to the ballroom at the Langham Hotel, the show was a fabulous one-off experience.

Oyster: Who was your favourite model to work with?
Francis: All our models were wonderful but we have favourites. The models we used in our lookbook, Jessica and Nick from NOVA, are the sexiest undiscovered stars.

Oyster: Were there any near-disasters backstage?
Francis: No disasters, the show was smooth as silk. Harold Samu was our show producer. We flew him in from Sydney. He works for Valonz in Sydney and does all the shows for Renya and Brent Lawler.

Oyster: Were you worried that umbrellas opened inside would be bad luck?
Francis: The umbrellas were a perfect touch. The day was disastrous: wet, cold and hideous…and we showed glitter umbrellas! FAB! Seven years good luck!

Oyster: How did you spend the evening after the show?
Francis: Setting up the studio for buying appointments (glamorous eh!).

Oyster: What’s next for WORLD?
Francis: A new store in Melbourne, a show next year in Sydney and a holiday in Paris.