FASHION WEEK DIARY FOR ASVOF


I started to do an Australian fashion week diary for A Shaded View On Fashion, but I only did day one! My bad. Here it is:
Dear Shaded Viewers,
I’m currently in Sydney for Australian Fashion Week, and thought I’d share some of my favourite moments so far. It’s the second day, and already I’ve seen some beautifully considered collections.
Conceptually, I think Gail Sorronda has presented one of the strongest collections, inspired by the idea of fluidity being interrupted. I met up with her before her show. She is the human embodiment of a wood nymph from the future. She has a sharp fringe, a pixie’s laugh, and always wears layer upon layer of black. She tells me there is a Charlie Chaplin film where you can spot a time traveler in the background. Excellent.
RWBRyanKenny
Finale @ RWB, by Ryan Kenny
As expected, Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett’s label Romance Was Born is responsible for the most theatrical show so far. Inspired byThe Never Ending Story, the girls marched around under the high roof of the incredible Mitchell library on Macquarie St. The wedding dress was clearly inspired by Falkor. Amazing!
LOVERJackDunbar
Backstage @ Lover, by Jack Dunbar
Lover’s show was by far the most polished, and was held in the Sydney Opera House to celebrate the label’s tenth birthday. My favourite model of the moment, Julia Nobis, looked stunning as she opened the show. She walked past me today and I was momentarily breathless. I love meeting people nearly as pale as myself.
ARNSDORFJackDunbar
Backstage @ Arnsdorf by Jack Dunbar
Arnsdorf presented a fresh collection inspired by tribal embellishment where ‘mint’ featured heavily. Designer Jade Sarita Arnott recently made the move to New York, though she continues to support the local industry that has supported her.
GARTHRyanKenny
Backstage @ Garth Cook by Ryan Kenny
One of the rising stars of Australian Fashion is Garth Cook. If only we’d had more time to shoot backstage images — he is such a talent that it’s a shame to share just one image with you.
As a side note, a friend and I met a wonderful woman at dinner last night called Carol-Ann. She was an elderly woman adorned with glitzy costume jewelry that introduced herself as “an old lush” and confessed to being “a bit of a pino-file” — somebody obsessed with pinot noir, as it turns out. She was very lovely, and shared a 1937 bottle of port with us, which was of course delicious.
Best from Down Under,
Images by Jack Dunbar & Ryan Kenny

YEN, MAY/JUNE '11

Yen #50: Winter Fashion Issue



Meet & Greet: Alex Noble



Profile: The Big Chill 
— Starring Elke Kramer, Akira Isogawa, Jordan Askill, Therese Rawsthorne, Karen Walker & Nom*D's Margi Robertson 




RAFW 2011 FOR i-D!!!

i-D Online



There's nothing like Australia!*

Australia’s top designers are as varied and unique as the local fauna. Each create collections vastly different to their contemporaries, whilst working under the constraints of a conservative and relatively small market. Instead of considering their creativity as stifled, Australia’s best and brightest have developed unique ways to stand out from the crowd. i-D Online went to the land of green and gold to ride the rainbow serpent and share some of Australia's sartorial delights with you. Dingo stole our breathe away!

For creatures dwelling within an isolated ecosystem of severely limited size; functionality, adaptability and individuality reign supreme. The same is true at the top tiers of the Australian fashion industry, wearability is all important, and even though showiness doesn't guarantee survival, the designers of 'Down Under' are anything but complacent.

Self-deprecating humour has given some of Australia's labels an air of notoriety, cementing them within the public's consciousness. Infamous high-street label ksubi ruffled feathers last year by emblazoning slogans like ‘Has Beans’ and ‘Plastic Fags’ across their outerwear. Sydney-label Romance Was Born may not print obscenities on its clothes, but its designers are no shrinking violets either. At Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in 2009, each of the label's looks bore a tongue-in-cheek name, like ‘Mermaid Slut’ or ‘Iced Bobo’.

In many ways, the Romance Was Born designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales are akin to the loud and proud lorikeets that hang like rainbow-coloured chillies in the trees of Sydney. They value bold colour schemes when constructing their costume-like creations and set tongues a twitter with their highly theatrical runway shows.



Other designers use complex tailoring, conceptual prints and unique textiles to set them apart. Enter Josh Goot and Dion Lee, who each year maintain their places at the head of the pack by evolving their signature styles to suit the zeitgeist. Goot is renowned for his artistic use of prints and his enlightened studies in silhouette, while Lee is widely noted for his experimentation with laser cutaways and complex pleating. The scenes for their shows could not have been more different. While Goot showed in an atmospheric dimly lit car park in Sydney East late one night, Lee showed bright one morning in the Sydney Opera House against a dazzling view over the harbour.

Finally, where minimalism and subtlety is concerned, designers like Christopher Esber and Gary Bigeni stand out. They may not utilise theatrics, crazy concepts or radical silhouettes, but the implicit elegance in their designs ensure they don't go unnoticed.

This year at Australian Fashion Week, highlights included the Josh Goot production, Romance Was Born's Never Ending Story-inspired production at the historic Mitchell Library, and Lover's highly polished big-scale production within one of the halls of the Sydney Opera House. As varied as the designer's aesthetics, the productions amazed, engaged and dazed. There were wild theatrics, tear-jerkingly nostalgic musical scores, high, haute and heavy hairstyles, blinding light shows, and far-fetched fashions inspired by everything from Pygmy-tribes to the movie Jaws.

Text Zac Bayly
Photography Jack Dunbar and Ryan Kenny

*See here for more.

KSUBI DOOBY DOO FOR i-D

 i-D



Sex, drugs and rock'n'roll is the mantra that has defined Sydney-based label ksubi for the last decade.

Under the direction of founders Dan Single and George Gorrow, the high street label delves into the experimental and subversive, shaking up and reshaping the local fashion and arts scenes. Infamous for their wild parties, boundary-pushing exhibitions and controversial stunts, ksubi have let loose hundreds of rats on the runway; forced naked models to walk the plank in the middle of Sydney Harbour and arranged an annual Big In Japan party to showcase the works of genre-defying international artists.

To celebrate their new denim range, ‘ksubi kolors’, they’ve collaborated with Australian multi-disciplinary artist Daniel Askill from the film collective Collider. The resulting film is an operatic matador-style face-off between coloured denim-clad babe and fume-spewing metallic beasts. In typical ksubi-style, the film was shot in an industrial wasteland next to Sydney’s Kingsford Smith International Airport, starring young beauties Cisco Gorrow, Heidi Harrington-Johnson and i-D fave Bambi Northwood Blyth. i-D Online caught up with Australia’s enfant terrible, George Gorrow, to talk about the future of Australia’s most in-your-face label.

Tell us about the kolors collection... We used to have a saying called “bring back life”, and I guess that’s what we’re yearning for right now. The kolors collection is actually a selection of our favourite colours that ksubi has run over the years. We have never released them all at once like this for men and women, and we have never made them in this high-quality super-stretch denim before, either.

How would you describe ksubi’s aesthetic, and how is it evolving? More than anything, ksubi is a reflection of the collective personalities behind the label. Our geographical isolation, our sense of humour, and our commentary on popular culture combine to give us a unique attitude. That’s our point of difference. Aesthetically, we’ve never been a pretty or beautiful label. It’s always been about a tougher, effortless look.

What are you working on at the moment, and what are your plans for the future of ksubi? We have a bunch of ideas that are coming to market over the next two seasons, including a new eyewear collaboration, our new blog about sex and fashion and some limited edition custom pieces. We don’t really plan these things too much... We just want to be an interesting contemporary label that continues to bring new ideas to fashion. Sometimes they’re great ideas; sometimes they’re shit. Ultimately the customer decides.

How did yourself and Daniel Askill of Collider come up with the concept for the film? We found the girls, the coloured rubber tyres and designed the jeans. Daniel turned it into a modern day bullfight with smoking Aussie 80’s muscle cars and beautiful girls.

Can you share a story from the day of the shoot? We were so distracted by the cars and hot girls all day that we forgot about our male model. We realised right at the end of the day and then took five photos of him in some green jeans. Now we have to Photoshop all the other colours in men’s denim onto the photos!

What was the funniest moment during the shoot? Seeing the first practice runs of the burnouts made us laugh a lot. Those drivers are insane. It’s like every man’s dream to drive a car out of control like that.

What was your first car? An old, salmon pink, 1962 Ek Holden. It was a classic Australian surf mobile.

What’s the silliest thing you’ve ever done in a car? We were in Melbourne for our show. We’d just finished, and were on a high. Driving back to the hotel, I said to my partner Dan, “I feel good. I could throw myself out of this moving car.” Dan said, “Hell yeah! Do it!” I opened the door, hesitated for a minute, and then I launched out. I ended up just rolling in a mess, but I was ok — just a few grazes and cuts. Then Dan said, “I want some of that!” So he lay on the bonnet of the car and ordered the driver to speed up to about 60k’s before slamming on the breaks. I thought, “Wow! This is going to be a great photo!” So I opened my door, and was half hanging out the window with my camera ready. The car sped up then slammed on the breaks. Dan went huge, but what I didn’t realize was that I was not holding on either. My leg got tangled in the door and the camera smashed on the road!

What’s your favourite...
Colour: Aged black.
Model of car: An old, beat-up Toyota Celica in emerald green. It’s got a ding in every panel, rust in every corner, and just about the worst sound system in history. It’s basically the worst looking car on the road, but my grandmother gave it to me and I will drive it until it dies in her name. It’s amazing driving it up to the door of fancy events. I love it.
Denim-wearing character: Brad Pitt in Thelma And Louise.
Place to drive: LA to Burning Man, then onwards to New York. But take your time.
Short film: A movie by Vincent Gallo for John Frusciante.
Airport: Sydney, ‘cause it means I’m either off to see the world or coming home.

The ksubi kolors collection is available now from Selfridges.

Text Zachary Bayly

EMMA'S PRESS RELEASE

Two days before her debut show at RAFW, I dropped by Emma Mulholland's studio. Before long I was writing her press release while my friend Cam joined the production team to bead some brightly coloured bracelets. The collection was a huge hit, and received rave reviews. Stay tuned for my interview with her, as part of my RAFW wrap-up for i-D.


PRESS RELEASE

She may have only graduated from Ultimo TAFE last year, but already Emma Mulholland seems bigger than a Masai tribesman in a posse full of pygmies.

Her debut RAFW collection, Queen Aurelia, is a reverie in rainbow. It's an ode to Mulholland's beach-side upbringing on the Soath Coast, shot in technicolour.

In the vein of her sponsor Dylon, she's an expert in colour, embracing every eye-popping shade in the spectrum.

Like a candy flipper at a rave, she's established herself as Australia's most optimistic and exciting young designer since her first collection launched last year.

In her accompanying fashion film starring Rachel Rutt, she references her surfing roots while exploring new and exotic frontiers.

It's clear that Emma Mulholland is this season's brightest addition to a conservative palette.

Welcome to the surfari.